Look
at that guy ripping it up over my shoulder, nice small super clean conditions
today. Still over head on the set waves,but breaking really hard on the reef
and very close to those nasty sharp volcanic rocks which just stick up in
random places or when you do not want them to.
If
you click on this shot you can see a guy standing on the reef and just to his
left one of those nasty volcanic rocks.
The
only thing missing here is the sun, it has been tipping it down here today,
never mind, waves have been super clean.
Which way would you go? Right or left, but whatever you do, don't go straight.
Why? You will be sure to end up in the shallow end.
A
nice, gas chambers left, was really frustrating waiting for these as most of
the waves just closed out on the shallow reef.
I will upload last few days surfing pictures to the
