What is your thing?
Big or small, points or reefs, slabs or beach breaks it is all good. As seen above, the surfer is styling along a lovely small wave and she is stoked!
To state the obvious the key to enjoying your thing is having the right board, positioning, timing and *level for the type of waves you want to surf. *level = Knowing the ability level you are at and remembering the North shore saying 'if in doubt don't go out'
Most of the time we have to put up with surf that is not what we train for or simply put is not our thing, therefore to keep that stoke you can try using bigger boards, softboards, fish, big boys boards etc just to help you get in the water and increase surfing time.
The end result will be plenty of stoke and waves (or as Zane would say, '..keep it fresh and keep it real dude..'
I know my thing, do you know yours?
For more info on our surfing lessons or booking a taster session > Click on picture below
