surf Blog, gower surfing, surf travel, surf information, surfing holidays,surfing pictures,learn to surf,swansea surf school, gower surf school, surfgsd, women's surfing, blog for surfers

Pipeline, sunset and the bay go off !

I have placed 3 short video clips below this post just to give you a flavour of what has been going on here for last two days with more of the same to follow sat and sunday. Just sat at Rocky point and watched a beautiful sunset with Amos and took this following shot which you can see the search and rescue helicopter in the background. When I showed the picture to Amos she commented that. 'it is so beautiful, shame that we know what that helicopter is doing..'  As late last night a surfer was reported missing after surfing out at pipeline. The search and rescue have been out all day.  The full story can be viewed by the following link to the Honolulu Advertiser and also now posted on surfline.
Our thoughts go out to the family and friends of a fellow surfer.

We had an unexpected swell arrival for Tues 9th/Weds10th

Just when you think it is going to give you a rest so you can recharge and get some oxygen in your lungs or stock up on those fantastic healthy 'shore break' smoothies at the Celestial Cafe in the old part of town in Haleiwa, and boom up comes the surf again.

Two, to nearly three, times over head sets breaking at Sunset Beach. Due to the swell having a bit more North in it, other classic waves down the coast were pumping. However I had my best waves at Sunset and managed three surfs.

I shook hands with Ken Bradshaw out in the line up, I have'nt spoken to him for 5 years but he is a super cool guy and once spent about half an hour talking to me about boards that work out at Sunset, priceless thanks Ken you are a legend.  Then during the late arvo surf bumped into Barton Lynch again and apparently he had snapped two boards out at sunset during the day, ouch ! I saw him catch a fantastic wave all the way through he still rips. I think he is over here helping a group of young surfers find their feet on the North Shore..surfing development Oz style !

The surf dropped throughout Weds' to double overhead on sets however I rec'd a good beating today which made me feel like a novice again. Having said that the Brazillain nutter next to me whom had the same set land on his head and lost his board, looked like he had seen a ghost when he finally came up for air. He then asked permission to hold on to my board for a while. Which of course I let him and asked if he needed help getting in, he did not and swam in to recover his board.

I even managed to fit in a surf session for Amos, we hired a board from North Shore Underground and went to a little spot just over from Halewia main beach. The waves had fantastic shape, plenty of power and as amos stated it looked like a Langland set up, but, much warmer.  Check out the video of her standing up on an inside wave below. She caught some cracking waves with other surfer girls and longboarders, She is stoked.  Perhaps, I should ask her if she is a SURFER ?  Whilst on the subject of recent blog from surf nation. My 5 year old daughter Isabella, when asked recently what text she would like on her new pink surfgsd tee shirt. She said straight away, 'I am a surfer.'  That simple isn't it.

Amos will be doing a post soon on her perspective of this crazy place.

Amos kentos catching waves with other surfer girls in Hawaii

               
 

Surfing is a fantastic way to keep fit, healthy and stay happy. Here is surfer girl Amos kentos catching her first wave on the North Shore of Hawaii. She has had one lesson in the past with Laura of Surf GSD. You can hire boards here for around $18 a day, you do however need to leave a credit card number as security. Please only rent if you have had a surfing lesson with an approved surf school before and surf with someone else. For the first hour I swam alongside helping Amos , then she felt confident enough to have a go herself. The ocean only has to be lucky once so please take care. Simon @ GSD

Monday 8th Jan, smallest day so far

Look at that guy ripping it up over my shoulder, nice small super clean conditions today. Still over head on the set waves,but breaking really hard on the reef and very close to those nasty sharp volcanic rocks which just stick up in random places or when you do not want them to.

 

If you click on this shot you can see a guy standing on the reef and just to his left one of those nasty volcanic rocks.

 

The only thing missing here is the sun, it has been tipping it down here today, never mind, waves have been super clean.

Which way would you go? Right or left, but whatever you do, don't go straight. Why? You will be sure to end up in the shallow end.

 

A nice, gas chambers left, was really frustrating waiting for these as most of the waves just closed out on the shallow reef.

 

I will upload last few days surfing pictures to the Oahu surfing picture gallery in next few days.

 

Back to the country, the safe zone.

What Amos forgot to state in her rant below this post is that, there was no surf worth surfing at the time and therefore I knew I could be back in time for the following sessions:

Safely back in the country, the magical 6 or so miles hosting most of the best breaks in the world at this time of year. Back in time for a two hour session out at sunset beach which was pumping, 4 - 6 hawaiian style and close to triple over head on sets for us mortal surfers.

This shot was taken from backyards looking back at Sunset beach, as you can see if you click on the pictures it looks bigger than 4 - 6 ft. It is amazing that you get big swells back home and you hear people saying that it was six foot and big at so and so a break. It is not until you come here and start understanding what the locals call 6 ft that you realise that perhaps you have never seen a 6 ft wave look so big before !

I had some fun waves and managed to catch two from the north side which took me all the way in, amazing feeling, comparable speed to tow surfing back home. Anyway, we headed for some lunch and then down past Waimea to checkout Lani's which was half the size and crowded with shortboarders, longboarders and hot doggers.

That is the beauty of the North shore, it caters for all types of surfers. You do not have to surf sunset or pipeline, gas chambers or rocky point with the pros' you can head down the coast for a couple of miles and there are plenty of spots that you can push yourself in.  I sat on the beach and enjoyed the sun, the waves were crowded so I just took pictures and enjoyed the aloha.

The following picture is a spot called Himalayas which I have surfed in years gone by and can be a bit sketchy trying to line up, however the conditions were perfect with only a handful of old guys on barges out there playing just a five minute paddle away from Lani's and on the other side of Lani's is another wave which is a right and sometimes a left.

Although there are many surfers of all shapes, nationalities and gender here on this stretch. There are equally so many classic waves for all levels and abilities.

After a nice sunbake, I headed back up to Rocky point for my next surf session. Bare in mind we are talking only 5 - 10 mins in a car going at 35 mph and look at the difference in size of waves. (see picture below)

The good thing about good sized waves here are that it keeps the crowds down and you could argue makes the surfing experience safer. However, when you have a bad wipeout on one of these it is down to the gods whether you are going to smack the reef lurking below. 

I came off a couple times and was rag dolled like a childs teddy bear in the mouth of a  Lion. All character building though and even watched another guy get held down for a full 12 seconds plus !

The swell was a mixture from two directions today, 2morrow is going to be smaller and then crap for a few days until Thursday when it all goes boom again with a 20 second swell period from the Nor west starting to hit. That is all for now, hope your all getting wet too.

The surf forecasts I use here are: 

www.surfline.com which you have to pay for on an annual basis, but I have found it to be a valuable tool.

The other is Pat caldwell whom is a High surf guru forecaster for these parts.

A trip to town.

A visit to town
by Amos Kentos.

Some might have thought it an impossible feat, but I managed to do it to him…twice!! That is drag Simon away from the north shore for a bit of touristy stuff. Many others have tried and failed before me but I succeeded.  Problem was both times were a bit of a disaster. But funny (in a sick kind of way). Here is what happened on both excursions away from the Country.

Trip number 1 to Maui (this did involve taking a surfboard so minus 1 point to me). Didn’t surf (back to 0-0). Drove round all of west & north coast but every single hotel booked everywhere. Was going to sleep in car but some right nuts wandering round Paia. Changed flights and went back to oahu. Expensive day trip!

Trip number 2 now this was going really well for the 1st day.
Started off driving through the ever expanding hell that is turtle bay resort.  How big does a golf course have to be and how many identical ‘tropical’ style condos do those little men in their silly carts need?  (Wouldn’t they all lose a lot of the paunch if they actually walked a bit around the course? Might be a bit strenuous going off-road on those rugged greens!)

Further along though was the beautiful and totally picturesque east coast.

Anyway found the cute Bamboo hotel, 2 streets back from the front (definitely recommended) and found a supposed allowed parking spot on the next street back.  Checked for NO PARKING signs- nothing. Lots of cars around- thought no problem.
Checked into to hotel. Headed for the beach.

Waikiki. Now what a lovely concrete jungle that was. 
Beach was a bit mad compared to north & east coasts. Sort of Benidorm, with taller palm trees and less egg & chips. Not really the tropical paradise shown on the ubiquitous ‘waikiki beach’ t-shirts brought home from Hawaiian holidays (or were they sold in C&A?) Had mess round on soft-top board in surf, but all a bit hairy when there are hundreds of out-of-control learners hurtling towards you and then flinging their boards after bailing.(* 1)

Also had to watch out for some mad canoe type contraption, transporting super sized tourists through the waves (suppose they have to get their thrills some way when not busting wheelies on the golf carts.) All good fun though.

Had evening meal on Waikiki beachfront at Shorebird restaurant, after a couple of eyeball quivering MaiTais (def. new favourite cocktail).  Simon thought it was a very clever set up there. Pay shed loads for your steak then get to cook it yourself- less chefs and no-one to complain to if your steak is too well-done!  I thought it was fun and a good gimmick (but I am easily pleased!)

Woke up and enjoyed my first ‘Denny’s’ experience.  What a choice of stodge for brekkie! Bit daunted by the menu and it was a bit early for the full Double Special Slam, but the omelette was great. Ready to head back up the coast and try a bit of snorkelling at Hanauma bay. 

Went to get car…couldn’t see it from corner of road. “Is this where we parked it?”… yes it had gone. Had the heap of crap been stolen? After the amount of wedge the rental place stung us for with insurance(*2), I did sort of hope so.

But after calling police- who did not want to know- we were directed to the car pound. It had been towed. Release fee $152 thank you very much!  Funny how the hotel staff, rental company and taxi man laughed when we said we had parked it on Cleghorn St- Beware all tourists- no signs/ pavement markings- still doesn’t mean you are safe from the recovery truck!  I suppose it’s just another tourist tax?

Another trip out to airport to recovery yard, lightened us of some green ones…..eventually back on the road.  Quickly back to Northshore before anything else untoward happened. Simon reckons it is safer on the North Shore and that is why he has not ventured away from it on past surfing trips !

(*1) Simon says please take care in the water here. Have a surf lesson with an approved surf school in Britain or if your on your way home from OZ, take a lesson in Australia. Whilst surfing this break in town, always fall flat and then cover your head. The bottom is a mixture of sand and reef which is sharp. The main danger is other people with massive long HARD surfboards, unlike the Uk. The BSA insist on 100% soft surfboards!

(*2) Top tip if you are going to hire cars abroad Simon has now taken out the following insurance which is an annual policy and covers you world wide much cheaper than the rip off car hire companies.

Sunset beach surfing session.

Went out Sunset beach on my 8'ft 6' biro gun, Hawaiian size 4-5 ft Uk size 10-12 ft plus.. Had some great waves and was lucky enough to meet surfing legend Barton lynch out there for a chat.

Would you believe this, sat out the back of a stormy wind swept sunset beach and having a chat with one of the old school elite ex world surf champs about Mumbles in Wales! Insane.

Anyway, made it back to dry land and totally stoked with my waves, the drops at Sunset are amazing. Off to get some food at the Celestial Cafe and then back out for some more waves. 

I forgot to tell you that yesterday I flew to Maui, to go and watch Chris bertish and jeff Clark towing  surfing jaws on Maui and then to surf at Honolua bay. 

The day before I had surfed out at the Bay, anyway got to Maui 2 late surf had dropped and the boys could 'nt tow due to the wind etc.. Never mind jumped back on a plane  late p.m after a good look around the  Island and  got some  great waves out at Sunset.

p.s On the way over the legend himself was on the plane 8 times world surfing champ Kelly Slater on his way to play a golf tourno the mercedes PGA pro invite.   

Kelly Slater to me is a fantastic Icon for surfing, he is a true professional dedicated to his sport. He alone has helped clean up the surfers image and for this GSD thanks him for everything he has given to surfing.  Keep winning Kelly Slater and the future will be better for all involved in professional surfing development.

Checkout the Hawaiian winter surfing pictures that I will update during my stay.

Hawaiian high surf advisories.

In to the alley you walk, your heart pounding and your head pounding as you know once you have decided to take the walk with the board you are going to go. Now, in most places in the world this does not happen, however, on the Northshore when there is a High Surf Advisory in place you start to realise your position in the food chain.

After a long five year absence from my favourite place in the world I came back and quickly discovered that all those seasons I have been out here helped me mentally but not physically.  My first welcome to hawaii occured at Rocky Rights with a hold up in the lip which led to my board parting company from my feet, which in turn led to a free fall and an over the falls experience. Nice ! It happend so quick, I thought that I had made it, called people off the wave and went. Oh dear, how big was it well I would have called it 8 ft, the local boyz were calling it 3 - 4 ft.

Five years is too long to stay away from real surfing, the adrenaline rush that you get from this place is amazing. On New years day 2007, I counted 20 people out at Pipe and one person at Rocky point lefts! Who said the North Shore is crowded. Thus far I have surfed with less people in the line up than I would do out at Crab Island which in the scheme of things would not register as a wave here on the North Shore.

The surf has been as big as 30 foot faces (15ft Hawaiian), I went out the bay on a 10'6 Brewer. It was not a good experience as there were 30-40 guys out there, no wonder Eddie would tow.

Anyway. going out sunset now, I hate wiping out at sunset, so I hope it goes well. Will blog more in the next week or so, or when I am home and am dreaming of surf again.  Oh yes, would like to thank Rich and Sharlyn Foo at Northshore Backpackers for looking after my boards the last five years, I was especially happy to get my 7'6 Crab Island deep six channel bottom surfboard shaped by Pete Phillips special back.  The Brewer would have cost me approx $600-800 to replace so it really helped me out as the North Shore has now doubled in price and that is another story. 

For more info on the North shore surfing scene checkout the following links below. (I will add more stories, pictures and links over next few weeks.)

North shore, Hawaii Novice   

Eddie would tow

High surf advisory