The great escape and are the surf media to blame?

A young lad from France turned up in the village this morning saw the nice lines and right colours, asked the local café owner where to paddle out then in he went.
On most days at most surf spots you will get away with this type of cavalier approach, I was pushing Millie along the prom and could see him paddling against the current for nearly an hour on his surfboard which would go great at most surf spots, but, not here.
Unfortunately for this chap he had not asked the café owner how to get back in as there is no sand here just large rocks that you can not escape up.
Consequently, after a time he gave up paddling sat out in the big blue ocean and a passing navy boat which was in the area performed a rescue of the young French surfer, I do not think he will ever come back to the Island.
An hour later myself and a fellow surfer jumped into the ocean for a crack at the waves on rhino chasers. All I will say about this is ‘Victory @ Sea’ the swell got even bigger, we could not get into the waves and I had a great escape as I attempted paddling into a 5 meter ‘in betweener’ only to get sucked up the face quicker than I could paddle down it. Luckily for me I did not go over the falls as I could hear screams and whistles.
Which tells you to paddle hard to the horizon, I swung my board around and headed out as I was faced with an approaching 6-7 meter set consisting of seven waves. That was it for me, the ocean had won I did not want to get a set like that on the head so headed in which took over 30 minutes.
Lesson learned don’t paddle for the smaller 5 meter waves as I have no doubt God was looking after me today, if I had of gone on that wave I would have been left in a spot that combined with a 7 meter set would have left me in a bad position.
The question must be asked why would a young lad just jump into the ocean on a board that needed to be at least 5 foot bigger and think he was going to have a fun surf? Should those that profit from telling tales from this special place include in their articles; Surfers beware drowning is a very real possibility. Or would this just be like waving a red flag to all the nutters out there that want to push life to the limit?
Perhaps the best thing to do is not do articles on this place and let it look after itself? I think this is a great option and would like to see the mags and hoes go elsewhere.
p.s would like to have seen the Long brothers or Erik Landry here today they would have gone big.
Live, Surf and Travel….