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Northern Hemi big wave season is well under way. camera action lights...

Whilst the North Atlantic has been throwing macking swells to the best spots in Europe and beyond (swells too big in some cases for the popular points in Maroc), the North Pacific has been stirring too with amazing pictures coming from the Cortez banks 100 miles off the coast of California. The super session resulted with Greg Long having a 3 wave hold down and a air trip to a California Emergency Ward!! 3 wave hold down that is truly horrible, apparently the impact/flotation vest he had failed to work.

Here is the link for more pics and videos of the dooms day weekend > Big wave surfing Pacific region  how do you think it compares to what Gmac, Andrew Cotton et al have been doing at Nazare in Portugal? Would be interesting to find out from Gmac the comaprisons in power etc etc.  If you misssed the Nazare sessions here are some pics from there.

Also here is what makes 2 big wave spots tick: The mechanics of Cortes banks  & Jaws on Maui

Anyway, if you have your big boards ready here are the quick link for wave charts etc

Happy hunting and Boas Festas!! 

Storm surf   Swell Forecast  wind guru   

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#Visitswanseabay only 3 hours by train away from the pollution & stress of the Olympic City

Heaps of beaches to choose from, great crack in the local pubs due to friendly and welcoming residents, yes people, who you have never met before saying 'hello'. You will notice so many things that help you enjoy your time here, you may even start considering, 'is money everything?'

Once you catch that first wave the answer will be easy...

See you soon on a empty beach not on a bustling street :)

Book in here > Surfing lessons for all

Northern Hemi winter coming to an end for another year

Pic above is of Sam a Welsh surfer based in Galicia.

It has been a very strange surf season, with December offering fantastic conditions for most of Europe. With the arrival of 20 strong surf brand team the surf went flat for their duration and beyond with only a few decent swells in January. Feb has been better but in the last 3 months the only big swell we had was in the 5 meter plus range.

In short good quality when the surf showed up, lasting for only a day then long lulls with only maybe 3 brown pants days in 3 months.

The outlook for next week is looking good but then it is all hit and miss, time to head back to the seaside city and get ready for the start of the season.

Live, Surf and Travel.

Pic above: Tom from Solva enjoying a clean wall.

 

The great escape and are the surf media to blame?

The great escape and are the surf media to blame?

A young lad from France turned up in the village  this morning saw the nice lines and right colours, asked the local café owner where to paddle out then in he went.

On most days at most surf spots you will get away with this type of cavalier approach, I was pushing Millie along the prom and could see him paddling against the current for nearly an hour on his surfboard which would go great at most surf spots, but, not here.

Unfortunately for this chap he had not asked the café owner how to get back in as there is no sand here just large rocks that you can not escape up.

Consequently, after a time he gave up paddling sat out in the big blue ocean and a passing  navy boat which was in the area performed a rescue of the young French surfer, I do not think he will ever come back to the Island.

An hour later myself and a fellow surfer jumped into the ocean for a crack at the waves on rhino chasers. All I will say about this is ‘Victory @ Sea’ the swell got even bigger, we could not get into the waves and I had a great escape as I attempted paddling into a 5 meter ‘in betweener’ only to get sucked up the face quicker than I could paddle down it. Luckily for me I did not go over the falls as I could hear screams and whistles.

Which tells you to paddle hard to the horizon, I swung my board around and headed out as I was faced with an approaching 6-7 meter set consisting of seven waves. That was it for me, the ocean had won I did not want to get a set like that on the head so headed in which took over 30 minutes.

Lesson learned don’t paddle for the smaller 5 meter waves as I have no doubt God was looking after me today, if I had of gone on that wave I would have been left in a spot that combined with a 7 meter set would have left me in a bad position.

The question must be asked why would a young lad just jump into the ocean on a board that needed to be at least 5 foot bigger and think he was going to have a fun surf?  Should those that profit from telling tales from this special place include in their articles; Surfers beware drowning is a very real possibility. Or would this just be like waving a red flag to all the nutters out there that want to push life to the limit?

Perhaps the best thing to do is not do articles on this place and let it look after itself?  I think this is a great option and would like to see the mags and hoes go elsewhere.

p.s would like to have seen the Long brothers or Erik Landry here today they would have gone big.

Live, Surf and Travel….

 

 

Future Gower Surfista getting use to the winter time waves

As with her big sister (Izzy, who can do hand stands on her surfboard aged 10) little Millie has had her training in the bath and with the thanks to her Circle one Baby wetsuit has recently been enjoying small wave swimming practice.

The wetsuit has kept her warm despite the water being around 18 c which of course is about the best it gets on Gower in the summer.

On the surf front the waves have been epic, and am glad of a day off today to just chill and enjoy the sun.

Anyway, no more news for the moment the atlantic appears to be taking a break for Christmas, well I guess it needs a break after the epic waves it has been sending out to Europe!!

Live, Surf Travel...

My ears are ringing and it ain't due to meat loaf....

We had a nice 4 meter swell with perfect conditions, unfortunately for me and the other surfers a group of pros chasing the pics turned up with it, and ruined the generally fun atmosphere in the water. It also forced me to take off on the first wave of a set which I never do here, but, had to due to the new arrivals.

Unfortunately my lack of surfing in real waves for 2 months led to getting a lip on the head when I tried to get a cover up, followed by five more set waves landing on me. It was a pretty bad beating and my ears are still in bad shape. 

Anyway we have a day off now before the next swell in the 5 meter range will light up the coastline again, lets hope I have learned not to go on the first wave as do not want that sort of punishment again for a while.

A couple of super cool Basque surfers were ripping and a joy to be in the water with, I have heaps of pics that will post when I get more time.

Live, Surf and Travel

Live, Surf & Travel Happy December it is the season to be Cheerfull

After arriving in my fave spot and unpacking it is now a question of sitting and waiting as the non stop low pressure systems that sent banging swells to most of the best spots in Europe are currently taking a break. The good news is that the long range weather charts are starting to show some great potential to get back in the water.

I would like to thank the security staff at Bristol airport, the bus driver for helping me with Millie on to the plane and the easy jet staff who were fantastic.

Anyway, that is all for now am off for a beer in the local bar next post will hopefully include pics or info on next swell.  P.s Do not forget Pipeline contest starts 8th December onwards and it will be live on a webcast > Triple Crown Of Surfing

Happy Surfing...

p.s why not give the gift of surfing to someone for Christmas

Give the gift of surfing to someone special this Christmas, no going to the shops simply click on  surfing gift vouchers link, you will have a several different options to choose from dependant on how much you would like to spend.

The vouchers last for one year from date of purchase and all surfing equipment is included!

 

Paradise found all be it temporary, but its all good thanks to the search

Kentos took this shot above of me contemplating the long lonely paddle out.. you know the one, your mind is screaming at you '..do you really wanna paddle out in that..'

I did not make my first wave, got fully marmalized and was left clinging to my board in the wrong place see pic above..

The cream on the apple pie, empty lines which I shared with 3 other surfers this morning and believe it or not I was on the smallest board for a change, my 6'10 bonzer pin tail.

The swell here is increasing 2morrow but may have some wind with it, hoping to get a session in at Guethary with my big board then going to head up the coast to Hossegor to finish filling my boots for rest of this lush June swell!

Live, Surf and travel.. see you somewhere!

 

 

The Search, see you somewhere...

After a quick visit to the supermarket I found this surf mag and pointed out to Kentos that I wanted to go there.. she just laughed, took the above picture and said but you have just had a great surf, the sun is shining and you still want to be somewhere else.

It's true, in fact this weekend is going to be super fun with a solid swell heading down this way, but, just looking at the pics in that mag made me decide that I want to go search in September after the season has finished.

Are surfers ever happy? Are we constantly looking for paradise even though we may be in it? Or is surfers paradise just those few seconds of dropping down a big wave or paddling out in warm water with the scorching sun overhead?

In the local beach car park I saw this van parked up (see below pic), does that mean stop the search you have found paradise?

So many questions, so many surfing spots and not enough time, I am just going to keep searching.. so see you somewhere!