
The Kentos took this shot and surf video of the wave that cost this surfer his board, she counted 3 snapped boards in 20 mins including my favourite Bushman semi gun. This is the first time I have surfed this wave and will def' be back for some more...However, it must be pointed out that the body boarders rule at this spot. Going out in Lisbon tonight as have no boards left to surf.... Obrigado Super Tubos p.s will upload surf pictures to surfgsd flkr soon.
Is the glass half empty or half full?
I am glad to say the waves are still breaking the same, here is a nice one breaking today at super tubos near Peniche. Unfortunately I can not say the same about the coastal environment and villages that have all undergone massive development over the last decade the picture below represents some of the incongruous buildings that are springing up all along the coast.. Believe it or not I once camped at this spot in some woods and a short walk from the surf.
Yep it is no mirage, just another ugly estate built for a fast buck.
Only two hours from Bristol and then a 30 min drive along the coast from Lisbon, then take the first drop of the trip. Surf looking bigger here 2morrow and am praying that super tubos will be working. Live, surf and travel
1) Read: This flat spell has helped me finish two books the gripping Half of a Yellow Sun by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie and the excellent book Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts which is being made in to a film at some point.
2) Drink: I also got talked into a few beers in the afternoon sun followed by an extreme drive up the mountains in the back of a van to the local 'poncha bar' which was in the middle of nowhere and wedged. The captain was on form and after 2 many ponchas we headed home. I woke up this morning with the bear from Shantaram dancing in my head.
3) Live in hope: The sacrifice for surf today failed but having checked the charts again looks like we are in for a good sized swell Tuesday arvo and all day Weds. Wales will win in Ireland and England will beat my grandad's team also.
4) Plan: Ok it is flat again let's have a look at prices of flights and surf conditions for somewhere new around Easter time. Jet ski for tow surfing this place how do I get it here and can we store it in a garage. Which pub and city shall I watch the rugby in on Saturday.
5) Recover: Visit Joes bar for a steak sandwich and bottle of coke, stumble back to Maktub and eat some ice cream, feel sick go back to bed as it is still flat. Tomorrow is another day in paradise, make a mental note to check with the oracle what time the surf will be here 2morrow, good night.
It turns out the young surfer that dislocated his shoulder here the other day was a bit shocked the way casualty staff simply pulled his wetsuit off him dispite him telling them to cut it off! Imagine the pain, they let him sit there alone for a while and then came back and said he would have to go to the city to have it popped back in... OUCH...anyway in true Aussie style his good hand was holding a bottle of super bock at the end of the day and he was telling us all the graphic details from the wipe out to the walk back along the rocks...you get the picture I hope have a happy Friday night.
Taken from a mile away with my cheap digital camera, however, one thing is clear there is no one in oh dear what a shame! For some video footage I shot of a local beach checkout this link; 'one surfer out all morning'
Had a nightmare getting my hire car at airport that will be the last time I use holidayautos anyway the sun is shining and the oracle aka 'the gill' tells me we are due a new swell 2morrow and Thursday so we are all excited like kids in a candy shop. Big Ben has just emailed me and looks like the cribber is on 2morrow wind dependant should be fun for the few brave souls. This is the view from my balcony and the landlord a well known pirate is a cool dude more stories to come after the surf arrives, obrigado!
Well why not, after a month of getting marmalised in the surf on the North shore a nice soothing body massage at the Atheneum hotel spa was just the ticket which I booked through 'lastminute.com' and must say was worth every penny I think it is an excellent thing to do on a stag or hen weekend as a hangover cure or before going out on the Saturday big nite out.
Must also mention 'Tootsies' in Holland park we had some lovely food in here and the staff fantastic, very good service and the food of very high quality.
The drive home was easy as the sun was shining and apart from the grey cold looking water of the Severn River reminding me that it was the winter one could be forgiven for thinking it was April and spring had sprung..