This is another one of my favourite Gower surf lesson pictures it was taken by Angus on behalf of VisitWales and used along with other pictures in an article about surfing here in Wales and used at various trade shows.
I like the focus, balance and pure concentration on riding the board to the beach surfer style.
This Hawaiian surf trip is coming to an end and I hope you have enjoyed some of the pics and stories, I have got heaps more to upload to my flkr surfgsd account so stay tuned. The next surfing trip will be to the Atlantic paradise Island in Feb so will hopefully get some more surf shots for you there. I had an email asking who is 'Piko Man?' Well his real name is Frank M, a surfer from the east coast of America and we both worked together many years ago at Plantation village, Oahu.
(n.b if you click on the pictures they will open up larger for you.)
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It is simple really and here it goes, get up 06.30 check the surf news network site and buoys, get gear and drive to beaches passing the Iconic sign (pic1) for Haleiwa. Head to beach, surf for as long as you can. Get out hopefully all in one piece, head for breakfast (pic2 Piko man), now, whilst here I have been good and eating oat meal most mornings but Piko man tempted me with pancakes this morning from the Haleiwa Cafe (pic3 Piko man) opposite WVR and wow they were lush. Thanks to Jeff in (pic 4) for the superb shot of the female surfer yesterday
After that headed home to catch up on emails and bookings for the surf school then up to Sunset beach (pic 5) for another surf, paddling in before or after the actual sun sets depends on the quality of the waves and the 'one more wave syndrome.' Again hoping that you get out safely (pic 6).
Get out, talk story with all the other old guys that surf Sunset, enjoy the calming feeling of surfers paradise and then head home for food, shower and then sleep as there is another swell due tomorrow..... (pic 7) The North shore rocks!
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'Book em Dano..'
*You stop getting ID'D when you go to Foodlands.
* You catch less waves than an 11 year old super grom called Benji Brand.
* You enjoy watching Hawaii Five-0 in the evenings instead of going out on the razzle.
* The boards you used last year do not float you as well....
Shall I go on? Never mind the sun is shining and the surf is pumping, going to Sunset beach for an early, the only way me and all the other older surfers will catch waves on a sunny saturday in the country....
I have posted them all on to our surfgsd Flkr and our slide account here is the link; magic day on the north shore. 1) SurfGSD's pipeline pictures on Flkr 2) SurfGSD on Slide
I went up to Sunset Beach and watched about two hours of the surfing contest which was mind blowing.
Here in the picture is another future junior super star Jon Jon Florence today his luck was out and he was eliminated from his semi-final.
It was only when 30 minutes later that I saw him running down the beach at pipe I realised that possibly his heart was not at Sunset today and all he wanted to be doing was pulling into pipe barrels. Here is a picture of pipeline today.
Two of these chaps ruined our surfing afternoon out at pinball's today....tiger sharks
I guess if your sat on the beach enjoying the sun and you heard this announcement then you would probably sit up and see if you could spot the two tiger sharks looking for food at Waimea bay this arvo. The reason they had been tempted in closer than normal was that the guys dug out the river last night and all the dirty water had flowed into the bay.
Well unfortunately for 10 surfers including myself sitting way out in the line up at pinball's the thought of being trapped by 2 tigers was not the most pleasant.
It took a bit of time to sink in, and when I first started hearing the announcements I thought they were talking about people stealing items on the beach, it wasn't until one of the local guys shouted the actual announcement to us all that it sank in.....aaarrrrggggh...'attention all bathers and surfers please get out of the water as two tigers have been seen cruising the right hand side of the bay..'
I turned to the local guy and asked, 'what side is the right hand side?' His reply, 'here'.
What would you do? Anyway, we all stuck to the shallow rocky section and paddled in the clear water staying well clear of the murky water. When I reached the beach after what felt like a cross channel swim, I can honestly say that I was indeed very very happy. I waited for the others and we all stood there talking about the fact we had been chased out by not one but two 'tigers'. The bay remained surfer less for the rest of the day, a couple of guys had rushed down after work and asked why we were all stood there. Well, they never went in either..sensible choice. Just read this story on surf news network click here '15ft tiger shark on northshore'
After a stormy Monday, the surf started cleaning up today and I snagged a few nice ones out at Sunset beach and then pinballs late on. I bumped into Gabe Davies and his wife at the Wave riding vehicles surf shop. (last time we met up here in Hawaii was 7 winters ago)
I was at this fantastic surf shop in Haleiwa to pick up a set of red-x fins for my beloved 'Crab Stick' shaped by surfboard guru Pete Phillips of Crab Island surfboards.
Then whilst surfing at pinballs I made friends with a local Hawaiian who lives in New Cross, London! Unbelievable...anyway I gave him my email and he is going to come surfing in the UK with us when he is back.
To top off the day we are all sat watching Hawaii five-0 drinking a few cold Stellas... 'Book em Dano'.... p.s if you want to buy any of the series here is the link Hawaii five-0
Back to basics, stand up paddle surfing is booming in Hawaii and Europe. I am sure there will soon be a debate relating to 'when and which surf breaks are cool to use SUP's' as the waves are already crowded enough. This guy was one of five at this spot near Halewia which is a perfect spot for learners and Amos can be seen paddling out next to the guy. Before anyone asks, yes I do Stand UP paddle Board but generally only for fitness and at spots that will not affect the fun for other surfers.
Amos waiting for her hawaiian wave on my Willis Bros rhino chaser. Surfing is fantastic for fitness and mental well being, the fact that Amos could get in and have fun on a day that I had just been surfing triple over head waves just two miles away shows the plethora of surfing breaks available to all levels on the North Shore.
Always a good laugh when you need a break from the country head to town, Lulu's had a happy hour on so we made the most of it.
Hawaii is all about surfing and the aloha of Hawaii is what surfing should be. The surf report for the north shore is looking real good and will be looking to get in at least twice a day.
